Materials for Whip Making

Nylon Whip Construction

I would like to share some general views and experiences on the topic of whip making. I am primarily basing this on my practical experience, but also on the various views and experiences of other whip makers.

First, it should be said that in most cases there is no right or wrong, but simply different views, methods, and experiences. I want to remain neutral and refer to different construction methods, their properties, and the various materials used.

Nylon Bullwhips:

A nylon bullwhip does not necessarily require a construction with braided bellies (layers) to achieve a proper unrolling. There are also "single belly or no-belly methods". The construction of a single belly whip can be as follows:

• Shotbag with BBs (small steel balls), metal ball chain in an empty nylon strand

• Loose nylon strands of different graduated lengths (to create taper)

• Strong binding between handle foundation and whip body (transition)

• Single braided belly with transition binding (prevents kinking at the transition and improves handling)

• Overlay

The variant with braided bellies can also be constructed this way, only that all layers of the whip are braided.

Differences:

Generally, many perceive the single-belly variant as "softer, more flexible" or "wobblier".

It is particularly suitable for short bullwhips (3 or 4ft).

My view/method

Both variants can unroll beautifully. Nevertheless, I prefer the feel of a whip with braided bellies.

For an experienced braider, the time saved in making a single belly bullwhip from 550 cord, compared to the braided belly variant, is not particularly significant.

Transition Binding:

It is important to protect the transition between the handle and the whip body from kinking. Therefore, thorough binding is necessary. One should not rely on the strength of the braid alone. Additionally, the binding can significantly improve the whip's rolling properties, precision, and general handling. There are also different preferences, opinions, and experiences regarding this. Some prefer a long binding, some a short one, a particularly tight one, a softer one. There is no right or wrong here; it depends on taste and how the whip should perform.

The perceptions could hardly be more different. Some find whips with a long binding more accurate for targeting, while others swear by the opposite. Some like whips that have little binding. I find these whips to be less beginner-friendly, harder to control. But ultimately, anything you've practiced with works.

Special forms such as steel cable instead of or in addition to the binding are also possible and work.

• Reduces effort

• Whip provides less direction

• Can quickly become heavy

My view/method

I would always prefer a whip with a well-thought-out binding adapted to the whip type. A bullwhip with good binding rolls simply more beautifully and elegantly and positively influences the overall handling. Bullwhips with steel cable as a transition can also quickly become too heavy for some. Furthermore, I find that I can impart certain characteristics to the whip through my binding.

To each their own.

One factor that should never be disregarded is the length of the handle when choosing the binding.

Materials for the binding:

Several materials are used for binding in whip making, and these also have different properties or impart different properties to the whip, e.g.:

Nylon/Netting yarns:

around 0.8mm thick are very suitable for binding.

• It remains very flexible

• Perfect for lighter, shorter, and faster whips

• The transition remains nicely "springy"

• Can be well combined with other materials

• Relatively smooth/slippery and therefore a bit tricky at the beginning of the binding

• Usually comes unwaxed

• The binding takes significantly more time

• Rather round material

Dyneema yarn

• Extremely tear-resistant

• Similar properties to nylon yarn

Artificial sinew and Dacron:

Both are typically made of polyester but are still different. Artificial sinew, unlike Dacron (or more precisely: lacing tape), consists of many fine threads. Both are available waxed.

• Less elastic (Dacron even less than artificial sinew)

• Can be combined well

• Great to work with thanks to the wax

• Flat and wider than yarns

• Sinew can be spliced

My view/method

All useful materials. Depending on the properties the whip should ultimately have. Used correctly, a combination yields excellent results.

Handle Foundation Material

• Thick steel nails (mostly for American/Indy Style Bullwhips)

• Spring steel rod: Does not bend easily and is perfect for slimmer whips

• Carbon: For ultra-lightweight models or hybrid whips

• Fiberglass: For lightweight bullwhips with flexible handles, but also without flex

My view/method

I personally am a fan of slimmer bullwhips, which is reflected in my construction style. Therefore, I always try to keep the whip slender from the very beginning. For bullwhips, I only use spring steel and fiberglass.

Tape

... is probably THE material that is always hotly debated. Some fundamentally reject it, others praise it, and then in between there are the facts that show that everything is only half as bad, but on the other hand can also be unnecessary.

Tapes as a substitute for binding are a pretty old hat, and no serious whip maker believes that works. "Surprise!" It doesn't work. No matter what kind of tape it is, sooner or later these tapes will tear or break, and the result is a whip that will kink at the handle transition and thus be trash.

Hockey tape

I will now only discuss hockey tape, as I have gained the most experience with it and have also exchanged the most information with other whip makers about this type of tape.

Often used for:

• Adhesion promoter between bare steel, fiberglass, carbon, etc., and the first belly

• Foundation for the binding for better adhesion of the yarn, sinew, etc.

• Foundation for the finishing knots at the end of the handle and transition knots

• Complete "bolster" between the bellies

My view/method

I have tried the first 3 points. I never had a single problem with any of them. This also aligns 100% with the experiences of other whip makers.

But by now, except for the first point, I consider these applications superfluous. I believe, "if it doesn't benefit me, I can leave it out." In fact, most things work very well without tape. But the foundation, the basis for everything, simply has to be right. If you scrimp here, everything else is ultimately for naught. 

Why Hockey Tape

It's only about the foundation, and only for nylon whips. Spring steel, fiberglass, carbon, etc., have a smooth surface. Paracord also has a rather smooth surface, and everyone should be able to imagine what happens when smooth meets smooth. In the worst case, this could result in an unstable heel knot. This would be quite elaborate to fix. Neither sanding the material nor using threaded rods provides a solution. It remains smooth and/or a sharp thread can damage the material. 

What makes hockey tape so special for this purpose? Quite simply: Hockey tape consists of fabric with a strong adhesive layer, but the actual and most important effect happens after the waxing process at the end. The hot wax penetrates the tape and dissolves the adhesive. This then also settles on the outer layer of the tape. This results in even more grip between the foundation and the first belly. And no, it has no negative effects on the whip. The dissolved adhesive doesn't even penetrate the first belly layer and only works between the foundation and the underside of the first belly. Even if you use significantly more tape, absolutely nothing happens on the outside of the whip. 

Of course, everyone is welcome to choose, "Do I want the best possible foundation and thus the safest construction?" or do they want to proudly announce, "There isn't a single strip of adhesive tape here?"

….Which brings me to the next point...

logical VS ideological

As a whipmaker, you constantly hear or read "this and that has no place in a whip"... Says who? On what basis? Where are the facts for such a statement? A little spoiler for those, "Whipmaker XY thinks nothing of tapes"... that's just an opinion and not above actual facts. Even if you repeat it 100 times, it doesn't make it a fact.

Everyone is free to have an opinion. If the opinion is also based on facts, it would even be worth something. Otherwise, one quickly ends up with "a lot of opinion, little knowledge".

Real craftsmen create facts by trying things out practically.

So the first question to a whipmaker should definitely not be,

“Is there tape in it?” That's nonsense!

No, the first question should always be "How was something made?".

I personally am not a fan of electrical or duct tape. But if a whip maker assures me that he only uses it for this and that, the whip has a proper binding and performs great, what do I care if there's a strip of tape in it? Here, one should really keep things in perspective.

Nevertheless, there are also a few charlatans who glue their entire internal structure with tape. Parcel tape, electrical tape, and all sorts of other things I've had to see. Usually, you can recognize these whips by the fact that they show kinks in numerous places along the thong after a short time, or break off directly at the handle transition.

There's relatively little you can do with that, as sorry as I feel for the buyer.

More to follow.